There's a moment I remember vividly from my grandmother's living room. I was maybe seven, fidgeting impatiently while she worked on what seemed like endless embroidery. "Why does this take so long?" I whined, completely missing the point. She smiled without looking up from her needle and said, "Beta, each stitch tells a story. Rushing would silence it."

I rolled my eyes then. But decades later, holding a chikankari kurti and examining the delicate threadwork, her words suddenly made sense. Indian embroidery isn't just decoration; it's living history, cultural memory preserved in thread and fabric. Each region's technique carries centuries of tradition, passed down through generations of artisans who perfected their craft one careful stitch at a time.

What makes Indian embroidery remarkable isn't just its beauty but its diversity. From Kashmir's valleys to Tamil Nadu's plains, every region developed distinctive styles reflecting local culture, available materials, and artistic sensibilities. 

Understanding these embroidery styles transforms how you see ethnic wear. So let's explore twelve distinctive Indian embroidery styles, because appreciation begins with knowledge.

12 Types of Embroidery From Various Indian States

1. Chikankari

From State: Uttar Pradesh (primarily Lucknow)

Cultural Significance: Chikankari embroidery has roots dating back to the Mughal era, allegedly introduced by Nur Jahan. It became synonymous with Lucknow's refined aesthetic, representing elegance and sophistication in Indian fashion.

Technique & Motifs: Artisans use white thread on fine muslin or cotton, creating delicate floral patterns, paisleys, and vines. The work involves multiple stitch types, creating texture and dimension. 

2. Kantha

From State: West Bengal (also practised in Bangladesh)

Cultural Significance: Kantha emerged from rural Bengal, traditionally created by women using old saris. It represents resourcefulness and sustainability, transforming worn fabric into beautiful textiles. The practice carries deep cultural significance as a skill passed from mothers to daughters.

Technique & Motifs: Simple running stitches create intricate patterns, often depicting daily life, nature, and folklore. The beauty lies in its simplicity and the stories embedded in each piece. Modern kantha work appears on kurtas, dupattas, and home décor.

3. Aari

From State: Kashmir (also practised in other regions)

Cultural Significance: Aari work developed in Kashmir and spread across India. The technique's versatility made it popular for both everyday wear and elaborate bridal garments.

Technique & Motifs: Using a hooked needle (aari), artisans create intricate chain-stitch patterns. Traditional motifs include paisleys, florals, and the iconic Kashmiri chinar leaf. The work can be subtle or heavily embellished with beads, sequins, and stones.

4. Phulkari

From State: Punjab (also Haryana)

Cultural Significance: Phulkari literally means "flower work." It holds deep cultural significance in Punjabi tradition, particularly for weddings and celebrations. Traditionally, mothers embroidered phulkari dupattas for their daughters' weddings.

Technique & Motifs: Vibrant silk threads create geometric patterns on coarse cotton fabric. The embroidery is done from the reverse side, with threads pulled through to create patterns on the front. 

5. Kashida

From State: Kashmir

Cultural Significance: Kashida embroidery represents Kashmir's rich artistic heritage. It adorns traditional Kashmiri garments and has become synonymous with the region's textile identity.

Technique & Motifs: Chain stitches in vibrant colours create bold, flowing patterns - often featuring the chinar leaf, flowers, and paisleys. The work is more robust than delicate chikankari, creating a striking visual impact.

6. Kasuti

From State: Karnataka (particularly Dharwad region)

Cultural Significance: Kasuti is traditional to Karnataka, historically adorned royal garments. It's a precise, mathematical embroidery requiring exceptional skill and patience.

Technique & Motifs: This counted-thread embroidery creates geometric patterns without knots on the reverse side. Traditional motifs include elephants, palanquins, and gopuras (temple towers), reflecting Karnataka's cultural heritage.

7. Toda

From State: Tamil Nadu (Nilgiri Hills)

Cultural Significance: Created by the Toda tribal community, this embroidery represents their unique cultural identity. Traditionally used on shawls worn by Toda people, it's distinctive and instantly recognisable.

Technique & Motifs: Red and black threads create geometric patterns on white or off-white fabric. The designs are bold and striking, with specific patterns holding cultural significance within the Toda community.

8. Sujini/Sujani

From State: Bihar

Cultural Significance: Sujini emerged from Bihar's rural communities, traditionally created by women using old saris and dhotis. It represents sustainability and storytelling through textiles.

Technique & Motifs: Running stitches create patterns depicting daily life, mythology, and nature. The narratives embedded in sujini work make each piece unique, telling stories of the artisan's world.

9. Banjara

From State: Originated with nomadic Banjara tribes (primarily Rajasthan, but found across India)

Cultural Significance: Banjara embroidery reflects the vibrant, nomadic lifestyle of the Banjara community. It's bold, colourful, and distinctive, representing the tribe's artistic heritage.

Technique & Motifs: Combines mirror work with bright threadwork in geometric and floral patterns. The embroidery is dense and colourful, often incorporating cowrie shells, beads, and coins alongside mirrors and thread.

10. Parsi Gara

From State: Gujarat and Maharashtra (Parsi community)

Cultural Significance: When Parsi traders brought Chinese embroidery techniques to India, they created a unique fusion style. Parsi Gara became synonymous with elegant, sophisticated sarees worn by the Parsi community.

Technique & Motifs: Features Chinese-inspired motifs - birds, butterflies, pagodas, and floral patterns - embroidered on silk sarees. The borders are particularly elaborate, creating a stunning visual impact.

11. Shisha/Mirror Work

From State: Gujarat and Rajasthan

Cultural Significance: Mirror work reflects the desert regions' love for sparkle and colour. Historically, mirrors were believed to ward off evil, making this embroidery both decorative and protective.

Technique & Motifs: Small mirrors are embedded into fabric using intricate stitching, surrounded by colourful threadwork. The mirrors catch light beautifully, creating sparkling, eye-catching designs.

12. Gota Patti

From State: Rajasthan

Cultural Significance: Gota Patti became popular in Rajasthani royal courts and remains essential for bridal wear and festive clothing. It represents celebration and joy.

Technique & Motifs: Gold or silver ribbons (gota) are appliquéd onto fabric, creating elaborate patterns. The metallic shimmer makes it perfect for weddings and festivals, adding instant festive appeal.

How is Each Embroidery Used in Modern Fashion?

For Kurtas and Kurtis

Contemporary designers incorporate traditional embroidery into everyday wear. Chikankari adorns casual cotton kurtas, making them elegant yet wearable. Kantha work adds texture to simple kurtis. Mirror work creates statement pieces perfect for celebrations. 

For Festive and Bridal Wear

Aari, Gota Patti, and Parsi Gara dominate wedding wear. Heavy embroidery transforms fabrics into celebration-worthy ensembles. Phulkari dupattas add traditional charm to bridal outfits. The combination of traditional techniques with contemporary silhouettes creates fusion wear that honours heritage while feeling modern.

For Home Décor

Kantha quilts, Kasuti cushion covers, and Sujini wall hangings bring traditional embroidery into contemporary homes. These pieces connect modern spaces with cultural heritage, making homes feel rooted in tradition.

How to Identify Authentic Embroidery Handwork?

Authentic hand embroidery shows slight irregularities; perfectly uniform stitching often indicates machine work. Check the reverse side; hand embroidery typically shows neat but visible thread work on the back, while machine embroidery has a more uniform appearance.

Hand-embroidered pieces feel different; the texture is more dimensional, with thread creating subtle depth. Price also indicates authenticity; genuine handwork requires hours of skilled labour and costs significantly more than machine alternatives.

Look for artisan signatures or authenticity certificates when purchasing high-value pieces. Supporting authentic handwork preserves traditional skills and sustains artisan communities.

Conclusion

My grandmother was right, each stitch does tell a story. These twelve embroidery styles represent centuries of tradition, regional identity, and artistic evolution. They're not static museum artefacts but living traditions continuing to evolve and inspire contemporary fashion.

Understanding these techniques transforms how we appreciate ethnic wear. At Aramya, we create kurtas and kurti sets using traditional hand-printing techniques like Block Prints, Bandhani, Lehariya, and Ajrakh—honouring similar principles of craftsmanship and cultural heritage.